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Sumba : Indonesia

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Sumba Travel Guide

South of Flores, between Sumbawa and Timor lays an island where the traditional customs are among the best preserved in Nusa Tenggara. The population of Sumba reaches about 600.000, the capital is Waingapu.

Today much of the population are Christians, some are Muslims while a large minority still adhere to the animist “marapu” religion. Sumba is separated from the other islands in the region by the deep waters, and due to the limited natural resources it has not been much influenced by the rest of the world. An old pagan culture can still be found alive here, not like the rest of Indonesia which has been greatly influenced by the large world religions and their culture.

East Sumba has a different climate, it is more dry and mountainous, the people here belong to one single ethnical group with one common language. Waingapu, the capital, is located here and is a hub for transport to and from the island.

There are some facilities here, but the main attractions are located west and southeast on the island. Some traditional villages are located southeast of Waingapu and can be visited on a daytrip from there. This part of Sumba is known for the “ikat” produced here, this is a woven textile that can take weeks and even months to produce because of a complicated production process. Traditionally ikat was only used for special ceremonies and only by members of the highest clans and their personal attendants.

During important funerals the corpse was dressed in the finest textiles to make a good appearance in the afterlife, and piles of extra textiles was often sent with the dead as well. Horses are still used for transport on Sumba and is a symbol of high status, the large grass fields in the interior of the island are well suited for horse raising The island is famous for its megalithic tombs and war rituals. A well known ritual is “pasola” were hundreds of men on horses throw spears at each other.

The tips of the spears are cut off, but serious accidents, even deaths, occur frequently. The season to experience this festival is in February to March, it will take place in four different districts to satisfy the gods and bring a good harvest. The exact date and time is depending on the arrival of the small “Nyale” fish to the coast (see also Kuta, Lombok). The priests will study the fish and from it’s behavior predict the outcome of the harvest. When this is done the Pasola festival can begin, the fights will usually start at the beach and then move further inland.

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